pt1 Location photography - Tim and Tom.finished

Landscapes.

Use a Tripod for landscapes because landscapes aren’t moving so you can take log exposures and not have any movement you can also take several images of the same thing on different exposures and they will not move so you don’t end up with different things.

Composition.

Re capped rule of thirds.

Discussed focal points, which stops your landscapes looking flat.

Creating depths by stacking images.

Metering mode.

Spots and evaluative metering

Spot for contrasting

Evaluative for cloudy.

Histograms.

How to read graphs

Bracketing (multiple exposures of the same thing)

Dan Holdsworth.

Modern landscape photographer, from London, latest project was ‘Black out’ which he did in 2010, mostly solarised images of mountains and landscapes.

My favourite images by hi are several in and album known as ‘Light in the Mountain’, My main favourite is an almost blank image with just a beam of blue light from behind a silhouette of a mountain then you can see beam of light from a car on the road below.

Lee Frost.

Photographer of many things has a landscape portfolio of Scotland photographs of lochs and mountains.

My favourite is of a pier/ dock with a lake and mountains around it taken at ullswater at the lake district. 

I also like another Lake District image of his

Which is of a snow / frost scene at river brathay.

Ansel Adams.

Rodchenko.

Paul Strand

I am going to try the metering technique that we did in class and need to edit them as 4 images together as layer masks.

 25 seconds

 20 seconds

 15 seconds

13.2 seconds

These are my images i am going to layer mask together, i used a tripod long exposures and an orange filter.

This is all the images put together with parts picked out i don't really think they look any different so I'm going to try it again.

Location Techniques.

Spotlighting.

Un direct lighting can make an image look less flat and make the subject stand out from the background as if the subject has been photoshopped onto a background you can achieve this with side above or back lighting, to do this on location, you'd need a low iso and f number and a high shutter, what we did was take the flash off the camera and put it onto a tripod. 

This achieved a less flat image and taught us how to use external flash off camera.

Taken In Class.

These are some examples I took at home, but i didn't have all the equipment i actually needed, so instead of the flash gun on the tripod it was the camera with a 100 iso 3.5 fnumber and a 650 shutter, also it was on a 2 second self timer so, i had to manually trigger the flash gun with the shutter as i didn't have a hot shoe adapter to use my trigger to set it off with. Although I lacked in equipment i think i did well for my first attempt.

My first image was the strongest as my subject is not too exposed and not too and not too dark, there are some fairly bright spots but i think this was the best image i did in terms of contrast.

The second image is 

is definitely my weakest as my subject is far too lit up and is almost white from the light.

Silhouette Lighting, In studio.

Silhouette photography is were your background is fully lit, and your subject is just a black silhouette. 

we achieved this by shining a spotlight onto our backdrop and having a subject stand aside the light.

This is how our space was set up.

These are what I took of Katie as a silhouette.

                                                                               

Lip Lighting.

Lip lighting is slightly similar to a halo effect, basically you have your subject almost completely blacked out apart from a lighting around them so you are only seeing their outline.

Out door Lighting.

Fill flash - Fill flash is a technique you use to hide unwanted shadows and expose a subject from the background.

 With

 Without.

Reflectors - Used to bounce light and remove shadows.

 Reflector.

Gobo - Enhances shadows to add a gloomy effect.

 Gobo.

Sharp pictures - Main focus of a sharp image is the eyes.

 When you

look closer at this image you see that the main focal point is eyes.

With outdoor portraits you need to be aware of where the sunlight is else an image can go really wrong and you can end up with glare.

When taking outdoor portraits its important to separate your subject from the background else they end up looking really flat and dull.

Histograms - Histograms show were you have under or over exposed an image in the form of a bar chart.

 Sun glare.

 Reflected.

 Reflected at the side.

 Reflected under.

 Reflector in shadows.

Photoshop and In camera corrections.

Quality needs to be shot in RAW so you can get the best quality out of images, also when you save images that you're going to send images to the printers avoid saving them as JPEG as it is compressed quality instead used TIF.

Focus needs to be correct in camera as that cannot be fixed very easily through photoshop.

Noise can slightly be fixed in photoshop and camera, In photo shop it is under RAW editing and in camera you just need a low ISO.

To check your work is exposed properly use the histograms on the viewing options of the cameras as once you get this into photoshop it will not be fixed.

Composition is completely done in camera as very little can be done in photoshop about it you can get rid of little things with the cropping tool or clone stamp.

Colours and contrast can both be fixed with photoshop but contrast is always goo to try get it rigt in camera.

New blog.

http://lilydeeox2.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/location-techniques-tim-and-tom.html