pt1 Sequencing - Tony Baker-Finished

Sequencing.
is a technique of shooting a series of images in where the subject is captured in successive motion. Sequence photography is a wonderful way of conveying motion in a static image. A merged photo sequence can radically show a different perspective much more than what can be captured in a single image.



Elliott Erwitt - Sequentially Yours. 

Skaters Cafe.Com

Photopoly.com

My Test examples of Photo sequencing 

New blog, this one is full http://lilydeeox2.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/photo-sequencing-continued-tony-baker.html

pt1 Black and White Film - Dervin Sheriff.-Finished

First Attempt at Film development.

Stage 1. Shooting and developing.

Firstly I went around Leeds city center with a film camera and black and white film, then I came back to college and loaded the film into a spool and tank whilst in a dark bag to avoid exposing the film. 

Once the film was safely in the tank, I took out the tank and mixed 25 ml of developer and 25 ml of 30 degree water. I added the mixture to the tank and left it to develop for 15 minuets. 

After the 15 minuets was up i got rid of the developing mixture and filled the with 25ml of Fix and left it for 5 minuets.

Afterwards i poured the fix back into the tub and washed my film with warm water and soap and shook the soap to clean the film for about 5 minuets then rinsed it out with warm water then emptied it completely and removed the film and left it to dry for 20 minuets.

During this process i had to make sure the chemicals didn't touch my clothes else i would of ended up bleaching my clothes.

 Negs and teststrip 1.

Stage 2. Contact sheet and Test strips.

When my negatives were dry I went into the darkroom and placed my negatives on light sensitive paper so i had to make sure i didn't use my phone or switch the enlarger one with out the safety light or i would expose the paper and it would be useless, so i placed the negatives on top made sure they were aligned properly using the safety light then i switched the light off and moved the safety and then ran my enlarger for 5 and half seconds.

to develop the image i used a similar process to my negatives, I placed the image in developer for 5 minuets, then moved it into stop for another minuet and then placed it in fix for 10 minuets, then placed the image down the shoot to rinse, then I left the image to dry.

After making my contact sheet i ripped up some of the light sensitive paper whilst in the darkroom, I chose my shot i wanted to use, which was of a tree with a plastic bag in, i placed the negative in the negative holder of the enlarger i put my paper in the draw so it was out of the light so i could focus properly, once in focus i put the safety on and aligned my paper and ran my enlarger for 10 seconds but whilst doing this i covered parts of the paper with black paper to not expose them so i had different exposures for different amounts of time, again I went through the development process and they weren't dark enough so I did this process again, this time from 20 to 12 seconds then again went through development again, after this i decided that about 13 seconds was correct for my image.

 Contact sheet and test 2.

Stage 3. Final images.

For my final images I did 2 different styles with them, one had a border the other didn't, so for the one with out a border i set my image up as i needed to, then placed the paper down and exposed the enlarger for 13 seconds then developed my image again.

 Final Image no border.

For the image with the border I used a print board to hold it down using the tongs of the board i covered some edges of the paper so that they wouldn't expose and they'd stay white.

then went through the development process again.

 Final image with border.

I think my Images worked really well because they looked like reverse photograms and the bag was really detailed and the tree was totally flat and i think it just gave it a nice effect.

the hardest part about the film was that i struggled to get the negative on the spool whilst in the dark bag, but i got there eventually.

No space on this blog. New blog.

http://lilydeeox2.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/black-and-white-film-photography-dervyn.html

Photo Montage - Hilary.-Finished

Photomontage.

Photomontage is basically self explanatory, it is photographs cut up into a collage style to create a 

composition, Mainly used by Dadaists as a statement for propaganda and the compositions they created were also created as anti war posters during the second world war.

These days photomontages tend to be created through software like photoshop, or used like collages.

Hannah Hoch

Hannah Hoch - Indian Dancer.

This is a photo montage made by Hannah Hoch, the image contains a photograph of a very famous german actress at the time. The short haircut reflected the short haircut of the modern German New Woman, as she was called who could go out and get a job and get her hair cut and go dancing and do all that. But Hannah Hoch sees this new woman as still somehow trapped in a many ways. The technique used in this image is photographs basically being cut up and stuck together into a composition.

what attracted me to this image was that you had all totally mute colour no solid colour on the original picture then on and around the face you have the solid greys and basic shape which i think make it look interesting.

Heat Filled Xmas - Unknown.

This montage was created near christmas time during the second world war,the artist has taken a picture from te bible and added gas masks to it as a political statement about what the country would be like during that christmas as a way of making people question peace on earth.

I think this image has been made like this through a print maybe, either that or its just painted like this. what attracted me to the image was the fact that it was similar to one of my projects that i had done before this for the book fare where i had pictures of people doing every day modern things in gas masks and i really just liked the statement of it because its saying yeah Christmas is ment to be a happy time but you still need to remember were in a war so they're wont be peace on earth.

pt1Experimental Photography - Steve.-Finished

Camera obscura:
We created a camera obscura using two different methods the first one we did was a Dark Room, we completely blacked out our class room leaving a small hole in tin foil on the window. Light travels in straight lines so this enabled us to see outside the class room upside down, Firstly the images of outside projected onto the walls a celling of the room.

This is what he room looked like. I do apologise for the fact that its unclear as I had a 5 second exposure and lack of tripod.
After this we taped a focal lens from a pair of old glasses to the hole, then Catlin and Danielle held up a cut up bin liner infront of the hole which aloud the light to project onto the bin liner.

 We found that when you moved the bin liner away the image was a lot smaller and unfocused and when you got closer it was enlarged and slightly more focused.

The second method of Camera Obscura was made with a small card box with a square cut out, where we had cut a square we taped bin liner to it, we held camera lenses against the lit subject this projected the image onto the bin liner and as the liner was white you could see it through the liner.

Infra Red Filter.

Using the internet Katie discovered that we could make a infra red filter from a piece of 7 by 5 cm film, we couldn't exactly remember the process for doing this when it came down to it so we had to go by ideas, so we made 3 test filters, 1 filter we exposed then developed the other two we developed un exposed pieces of film.

We discovered that the exposed film worked better for the infra red filter as it was darker and gave the correct effects.

Stereo Grams.

Stereo Grams are basically a trick of the mind. You have 2 images separate from each other, the images have to be of the same thing, we used a pair of 3+ focal reading glasses from pound land, held the image up and looked just over the image and it appeared 3D.

Scanography.

Scanography it making photographs using a scanner not a camera because in theory a scanner is a camera really.

so you can take random objects or even people and scan them straight into your computer.

Blog full. New blog link.

http://lilydeeox2.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/steve-experimental-photography-extended.html

pt1 Location photography - Tim and Tom.finished

Landscapes.

Use a Tripod for landscapes because landscapes aren’t moving so you can take log exposures and not have any movement you can also take several images of the same thing on different exposures and they will not move so you don’t end up with different things.

Composition.

Re capped rule of thirds.

Discussed focal points, which stops your landscapes looking flat.

Creating depths by stacking images.

Metering mode.

Spots and evaluative metering

Spot for contrasting

Evaluative for cloudy.

Histograms.

How to read graphs

Bracketing (multiple exposures of the same thing)

Dan Holdsworth.

Modern landscape photographer, from London, latest project was ‘Black out’ which he did in 2010, mostly solarised images of mountains and landscapes.

My favourite images by hi are several in and album known as ‘Light in the Mountain’, My main favourite is an almost blank image with just a beam of blue light from behind a silhouette of a mountain then you can see beam of light from a car on the road below.

Lee Frost.

Photographer of many things has a landscape portfolio of Scotland photographs of lochs and mountains.

My favourite is of a pier/ dock with a lake and mountains around it taken at ullswater at the lake district. 

I also like another Lake District image of his

Which is of a snow / frost scene at river brathay.

Ansel Adams.

Rodchenko.

Paul Strand

I am going to try the metering technique that we did in class and need to edit them as 4 images together as layer masks.

 25 seconds

 20 seconds

 15 seconds

13.2 seconds

These are my images i am going to layer mask together, i used a tripod long exposures and an orange filter.

This is all the images put together with parts picked out i don't really think they look any different so I'm going to try it again.

Location Techniques.

Spotlighting.

Un direct lighting can make an image look less flat and make the subject stand out from the background as if the subject has been photoshopped onto a background you can achieve this with side above or back lighting, to do this on location, you'd need a low iso and f number and a high shutter, what we did was take the flash off the camera and put it onto a tripod. 

This achieved a less flat image and taught us how to use external flash off camera.

Taken In Class.

These are some examples I took at home, but i didn't have all the equipment i actually needed, so instead of the flash gun on the tripod it was the camera with a 100 iso 3.5 fnumber and a 650 shutter, also it was on a 2 second self timer so, i had to manually trigger the flash gun with the shutter as i didn't have a hot shoe adapter to use my trigger to set it off with. Although I lacked in equipment i think i did well for my first attempt.

My first image was the strongest as my subject is not too exposed and not too and not too dark, there are some fairly bright spots but i think this was the best image i did in terms of contrast.

The second image is 

is definitely my weakest as my subject is far too lit up and is almost white from the light.

Silhouette Lighting, In studio.

Silhouette photography is were your background is fully lit, and your subject is just a black silhouette. 

we achieved this by shining a spotlight onto our backdrop and having a subject stand aside the light.

This is how our space was set up.

These are what I took of Katie as a silhouette.

                                                                               

Lip Lighting.

Lip lighting is slightly similar to a halo effect, basically you have your subject almost completely blacked out apart from a lighting around them so you are only seeing their outline.

Out door Lighting.

Fill flash - Fill flash is a technique you use to hide unwanted shadows and expose a subject from the background.

 With

 Without.

Reflectors - Used to bounce light and remove shadows.

 Reflector.

Gobo - Enhances shadows to add a gloomy effect.

 Gobo.

Sharp pictures - Main focus of a sharp image is the eyes.

 When you

look closer at this image you see that the main focal point is eyes.

With outdoor portraits you need to be aware of where the sunlight is else an image can go really wrong and you can end up with glare.

When taking outdoor portraits its important to separate your subject from the background else they end up looking really flat and dull.

Histograms - Histograms show were you have under or over exposed an image in the form of a bar chart.

 Sun glare.

 Reflected.

 Reflected at the side.

 Reflected under.

 Reflector in shadows.

Photoshop and In camera corrections.

Quality needs to be shot in RAW so you can get the best quality out of images, also when you save images that you're going to send images to the printers avoid saving them as JPEG as it is compressed quality instead used TIF.

Focus needs to be correct in camera as that cannot be fixed very easily through photoshop.

Noise can slightly be fixed in photoshop and camera, In photo shop it is under RAW editing and in camera you just need a low ISO.

To check your work is exposed properly use the histograms on the viewing options of the cameras as once you get this into photoshop it will not be fixed.

Composition is completely done in camera as very little can be done in photoshop about it you can get rid of little things with the cropping tool or clone stamp.

Colours and contrast can both be fixed with photoshop but contrast is always goo to try get it rigt in camera.

New blog.

http://lilydeeox2.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/location-techniques-tim-and-tom.html